Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
